RomeThe eternal city of Rome, constructed of ruins and in whose name the Caesars sought to claim the world, opens for the visitor as a living museum. The centuries peel back with each new vista in this great city of gladiators, lunatic drivers and well-rounded pasta posteriors. Vespas, nippy little Fiats and red sports cars speed past trendy sidewalk bistros and nightclubs, revealing the Rome of Fellini's
La Dolce Vita. The chillingly stark facades of the Stadio Olimpico complex bring back Mussolini's attempts to reinvent the architecture of the Caesars.
For a taste of the
Baroque, visitors need only climb the famous Spanish Steps, walk through the Piazza Navona or toss a coin into the beautiful Trevi Fountain. Renaissance splendor is perhaps best revealed in the Pope's residence, the Vatican Palace, or in Michelangelo's efforts on the roof of the Sistine Chapel. From early Christian Basilicas to the Roman Forum, the Colosseum and the Pantheon, the sequence of history trails back to the height of the Roman Empire.
It may sound like a city of contrasts, but Rome's timeless magic lies in its ability to blend the old with the new. Empires have risen and fallen, old gods have been replaced with new ones, but Rome remains.
Getting Around: The historic center of Rome is compact and manageable on foot and most of it is closed to normal traffic. Driving in Rome is an experience to be avoided so if arriving by car it's best to park it and use public transport to get around. The network of buses, trams, metro and trains covers the whole city from 5.30am to midnight (metro to 11.30pm) and night buses take over until about 5am covering the main routes. The metro only has two lines, but is the easiest and fastest way to get around and is convenient for several attractions. The bus service is cheap and reliable, albeit slow due to traffic congestion. Tickets cover all forms of transport and must be pre-purchased and validated at the start of every journey; there are daily tickets valid for unlimited rides, or standard tickets valid for one metro ride or 75 minutes on buses. Taxis are notoriously expensive and display a list of surcharges; they are difficult to find on the streets or even at taxi stands and are best ordered by the hotel concierge or at restaurants. Note that the meter gets switched on immediately so the time it takes to arrive is added to the bill. If hailing one on the street use only the official yellow and white taxis, make sure the meter is on and have small change handy. The 110 Open is a bus service that stops at all the city's main sights, departing from Termini Station square every 20 minutes.
Nightlife: The nightlife in Rome is laid-back, in true Italian style. People like to sit at cafés or restaurants taking their time with lots of food, wine and coffee. Campo dei Fiori, the Piazza Navona area and Trastevere are some of the best places for bars and cafés, while the Testaccio and Ostiense districts are better for nightclubs. Roma C'è and TrovaRoma (free with La Repubblica newspaper) have information on nightlife in Rome.There are many wine bars and cafés near Campo de' Fiori, Piazza Navona and Via della Pace. Bar del Fico is good for cocktails and Zest at Es Hotel has a lovely poolside bar. The Vineria, in Campo de' Fiori, is very trendy and frequented by moviestars. Freni & Frizioni in Trastevere was a former car workshop, its name translates to Brakes and Clutches. Cafés in Trastevere attract visitors to see Piazza di Santa Maria's fountain and 12th century church lit up at night, as well as occasional guitar performances.Party with the rich and famous at Gilda, close to Piazza di Spagna, or watch paid dancers at Alien, on Via Velletri. In Ostiense, hear some great DJs at Goa, or visit Classico Village for good Italian pop, rock and jazz concerts. There are also various ristodiscos, where both eating and dancing are enjoyed. When the clubs close for summer, there are numerous outdoor venues around town and near Ostia; outdoor festivities on Via di Monte Testaccio, in Testaccio, take center stage and include food stalls and markets.The Teatro dell'Opera is home to the Rome Opera Ballet and opera is performed at the Baths of Caracalla's open-air ruins in July and August. Rock bands often perform at Stadio Flaminio and the Palazzo dello Sport.
Climate: The weather in Rome during summer is uncomfortably hot, temperatures often exceeding 95°F (35°C) at midday, and Romans tend to close up their businesses during August to take holidays in cooler spots. Mid-winter is mild, the average temperature in December hovering around 55°F (13°C). The best time to travel to Rome is in springtime, when skies are blue and the weather warm. Rain showers are possible any time of year.
TuscanyTuscany's rolling hills are garlanded with cypress trees, lush vines and olive groves that make way here and there for sleepy villages and medieval hill towns. The area rests languidly in the middle of the Italian peninsula, with parts stretching to the coastline of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Snaking through the Tuscan landscape from Florence to Pisa and soaking its thirsty banks is the Arno River. Akin to the gentle flow of a river is the ebb of life in the region. People work in the fields in much the same way their ancestors did before them, producing some of Italy's finest wines and olive oils. From this same landscape emerges a profusion of art and architecture that has fashioned Italy onto the cultural map. Tuscany was the birthplace of the Renaissance, a period of unprecedented innovation in art, architecture and humanist scholarship. The grandeur of the High Renaissance was enjoyed during the Medici family's reign when they commissioned the art and architecture that lives on within the elegant precincts of Florence.
Climate: Tuscany has a mild Mediterranean climate, with hot summers and cold, wet winters. Winter temperatures range from 50°F to 59°F (10°C to 15°C), while summer temperatures range between 77°F and 86°F (25°C and 30°C). Humidity can be high. The best time to visit Tuscany is in May, September and October.
SardiniaD H Lawrence passed through Sardinia in 1921 remarking on its geographic location as a place 'lost between Europe and Africa and belonging nowhere'. It is off the beaten track, but therein perhaps lies its appeal. The island's beaches are some of the cleanest and least crowded in Italy. The capital is Cagliari, a good base from which to explore other parts of the island. The National Archaeological Museum of Cagliari contains prehistoric tombs and other significant artifacts from the Punic and Roman periods. The resort of Costa Smeralda is a place of luxury and opulence, not suited to budget tourists, although interesting as a short stop. The Spanish tinted port of Alghero is the favored package destination, especially among British holidaymakers. The inland town of Nuoro is a good station from which to explore the Gennargentu mountain range and enjoy the traditional village festivals. The Sardinian landscape is peppered with constructions from the ancient Nuragic civilization. These stone structures are unique to Sardinia and are must-see sites. They are however not easily accessible as they lie in isolated spots throughout the island.
Climate: Sardinia has a typically Mediterranean climate, but the south is generally much drier than the north western region, which receives a lot of rain in winter. The wettest months are November and December, while July and August are the hottest and the driest with an average of about 95°F (35°C) and sometimes reaching 104°F (40°C). In winter temperatures average about 50°F (10°C) along the coast.
Lake CountryThe great northern lakes stretch like sparkling glass-topped vistas within a sequence of long, cavernous valleys descending from the Alps.
Lake Como, Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda emit their unique sparkle onto the magnificent surrounding landscape and in turn attract diverse tourists to their banks. Younger travelers enjoy the sailboarding and nightlife experience of Lake Garda whilst sophisticates from Milan are drawn to the magnetism of Lake Como.
Maggiore provides a tranquil, relaxed respite and can be enjoyed from the comforts of its surrounding luxury hotels.
VeniceElegant Venetian buildings and palaces peer over the ancient maze of narrow streets and labyrinth of canals that contrive to make this a unique city. Tourists naturally flock to Venice to experience its inimitable charm. The downside of this can be felt in the narrow streets and cramped piazzas of its sought-after areas. A good way to get to know a more personal side of Venice is to saunter through its romantic back streets and residential quarters.
Venice rests on one of a series of 117 islands distributed throughout the Venetian lagoon at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea. This strategic position conferred on Venice economic and defensive advantages over its trading rivals. As the wealth of the city increased and its population grew, the composition of the city grew ever more dense and today only a handful of the islets that constitute the historic center are not entirely developed.
The historic center is divided into six quarters (sestieri). These are: San Marco, Dorsoduro, San Polo, Santa Croce, Cannaregio and Castello. The city's main thoroughfare is the Grand Canal that intersects each district as it meanders through the length of Venice from the railway station to San Marco. An alternative to walking the bewildering streets of Venice is to cruise the waterways onboard the motorboat buses known as vaporetti. These are the less romantic but also less expensive substitutes for the famous gondolas.
Venice extends beyond its six sestieri to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. These are known for glass and lace-making respectively and Torcello is noted for the magnificent Byzantine Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta that rests on its soil. Trips by boat to the islands provide a pleasant diversion from the busier historic quarters.
Getting Around: As you might expect from a city famous for its canals, water is the main medium of transport in Venice. Water buses, known as Vaporetti, ply the Grand Canal and make scheduled stops. Instead of taxi cabs visitors can hire a water taxi or a gondola, piloted by a stripe-shirted gondolier, who for an extra fee will serenade his passengers as he poles them through the waterways. Though an iconic experience of a Venetian holioday, the gondola option is exceedingly expensive. Once ashore the only way to explore is on foot, through the narrow alleys and lively squares; there are no cars at all in Venice.
Nightlife: Venice is not famed for a hectic nightlife but the persistent will persevere... Piazza San Marco has the most popular social venues, and the tourist information centers have current English-language schedules of special events. The Ospite di Venezia guide is available in the more expensive hotels. Cafés abound in Venice, one of the most popular being Taverna del Campiello Remer, near the Grand Canal's Rialto bridge, which often has live music. Near San Marco, Caffè Lavena and Caffè Quadri (the first to serve coffee in Venice) are also worth visiting. In Campo Santo Stefano, the Paolin bar and gelateria serves the best ice-cream. The Devil's Forest Pub sees patrons enjoying backgammon, chess and Trivial Pursuit, while Bácaro Jazz cocktail bar has great Bellinis. El Moro Pub boasts numerous beers on-tap and a TV (smokers welcome!) Torino@Notte offers live jazz performances and beer from Lapland.Nightclubs are more limited; Piccolo Mondo, on Dorsoduro, has disco nights during summer, and Casanova on Lista di Spoagna is also quite popular. Visitors are better off trying their luck at one of the city's casinos, the most acclaimed being Casino Municipale di Venezia (note: a passport and jacket are required for entry). Otherwise, there are regular classical-music concerts; the Vivaldi Church, San Stefano and the Scuola di San Giovanni Evangelista are often concert venues, as is Chiesa di Vivaldi.
Climate: Venice experiences very high humidity, with hot weather in July and August, the height of summer. Temperatures in summer usually range between 86°F to 91°F (30°C - 33°C), dropping in winter to between 32°F and 37°F (0°C - 3°C). Due to its location on the Adriatic coast, Venice often experiences thunderstorms and rain showers which, particularly in spring and autumn, tend to cause flooding. Known as the 'acqua alta,' it is best to pack waterproof shoes or boots, to avoid a soaking. April to October is usually the busiest time in Venice, though it is a popular destination year round. Christmas, Easter, Carnival (in February) and the Venice International Film Festival (in August) are also busy periods and winter is perhaps the best time to travel to Venice to avoid crowds and find better rates on accommodation.
NaplesItaly's third largest city thrives on the chaos that prevails amid its busy streets. This is the place where pizza was invented and its restaurants continue to serve some of Italy's finest cuisine.
Sheltering on the Bay of Naples and dominated by the slopes of Mount Vesuvius, Naples is naturally imbued with the best of nature's bounty. The city is somewhat schizophrenic in its juxtaposition of superb museums, Renaissance and Baroque churches alongside crumbling tenement blocks and squalor. Noisy markets sell a collection of items from high-quality food produce to fake designer goods. Roads are characteristically hectic with gung-ho moped drivers weaving wildly through the streets and frustrating traffic jams clogging the city's arteries. Despite its less refined elements, Naples is a fascinating destination and a great base from which to explore the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Herculaneum.
The city's transport hub is located around the immense Piazza Garibaldi, on the east side of Naples. The area's growing African population has imbued the streets with the flavors and favors of its immigrants. Southwest from here is the Piazza Bovio and branching to the left of it, the Piazza Municipio and nearby Piazza del Plebiscito. On the watery edges are the Molo Beverollo and the Stazione Marittima, the point of departure for ferries. From the reaches of Spaccanapoli one can explore the historic part of Naples with its numerous palaces and churches.
Getting Around: Naples has a public transport network consisting of buses, trolleys and a subway, which is complicated to use but preferable to taking on the city's notorious traffic jams in a hire car or taxi. Tickets for all forms of transport are uniform, and can be obtained at stations and kiosks that advertise the 'Gira Napoli' (Naples Pass). The city's ANM buses are fairly frequent, most departing from the Piazza Garibaldi. There are two metro lines, the 'Metropolitana' line being the one that serves downtown where most sights are located. Funicular railways run up the Vomero from stations at Piazza Montesanto, Amadeo and Augusto. There are taxi ranks in most piazzas, but using a taxi can prove expensive because of traffic congestion.
Climate: The Mediterranean climate of southern Italy is milder and sunnier than the north, with dry summers and wet autumns and winters in Naples. The coast has mild winters and warm, dry summers. July is the hottest month in Naples with average temperatures ranging from 64°F to 85°F (18°C to 29°C), while January ranges from 38°F to 54°F (3°C to 12°C). The west coast of the Italian peninsula is generally wetter than the east coast and the southern 'Sirocco' wind brings high humidity with the rain.
MilanSophistication reaches new levels in Milan. The financial and commercial center of Italy attracts fashion fundis, opera lovers, the young, the beautiful and the bold. Shopping, eating and clubbing is serious business here and it is no surprise that the city boasts the world's most beautiful shopping mall, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Equally vying for admiration are the Milanese icons of La Scala Theater (Teatro della Scala) and the Gothic Duomo, one of the world's largest churches. Milan's frenetic pace surges ahead in its drive towards progress, forsaking the lengthy siestas enjoyed in other parts of the country. The city's urban tentacles stretch for miles, although the significant historical attractions are contained between the two landmark sites - the Duomo and the Sforzesco Castle. These reside within the inner loop of the city's concentric design, which is split into four squares: Piazza Duomo, Piazza Cairoli, Piazza Cordusio and Piazza San Babila. The modern civic center lies to the northwest, around Mussolini's colossal train station built in 1931. The area around here is dominated by a skyline of skyscrapers from which the sleek Pirelli Tower emerges. The Fiera district that stretches around Porta Genova station is the nub for trade and fashion fairs.
Getting Around: Milan has an extremely efficient and well-established public transport system, covering nearly 870 miles (1,400km), which is fortunate because the city's roads are congested and local drivers frighteningly reckless. The ATM operates the metro, bus, tram and trolley services, which have the advantage of being integrated. Tickets, which can be bought from tobacconists, coffee bars and vending machines throughout the city, are validated on board and then have a time limit of 75 minutes travel on any of the transport options, or one ride on the metro. One and two-day passes are also available. The city's metro is particularly efficient, inexpensive and user-friendly with three lines. Linea 1, the red line, covers the most important tourist area near the Duomo. Taxis are freely available but require to be hired at marked stands. Expect extra charges for luggage, late-night or Sunday travel.
Climate: The climate of Milan is Mediterranean, but like any large urban metropolis, buildings and human activity affect the local micro-climate. In the case of Milan this makes the weather rather more extreme. Summers can be swelteringly hot and humid, with temperatures rising above 86°F (30°C) during August. The mountains behind the city protect Milan somewhat from the severity of winter, but the weather is very chilly with temperatures occasionally dropping below freezing. Winter also brings rain showers and heavy fog.
Italian AlpsThe scenic Italian Alps comprise lush valleys and pine forests set against the backdrop of jagged white peaks stretching through the clouds. Towns nestle in the valleys and ski chalets nuzzle into the crevices offered by the generous mountains. Access to the area is provided along train or bus routes snaking through the Alps but the international cable car connection over the mountains from Chamonix is by far the most spectacular way to enter the region. Tourists flock to these parts and the largely French influence is extended to the street names. The Gran Paradiso National Park is a sublime experience of waterfalls, cliffs and lush vegetation. Hiking is a big attraction along the scenic mountain trails that stretch for miles and are paused in parts by mountain huts and refuges. Favorable months for walking are July, August and September when most of the snow has melted into the thirsty soil. Italy's best ski resorts are in the Valle d'Aosta, within the shadows of Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. Courmayer and Brevil Cervinia are both world class resorts and the skiing is augmented by the Italian love of life and matchless cuisine and wines.
Climate: The valleys and higher mountains of the Italian Alps experience different climates, both in winter and summer. In winter the mountains are snow covered, but are generally sunny with relatively warm daytime temperatures, while the valleys are often foggy. In summer the valleys experience warm, clear weather, while the mountains are covered in cloud; the altitude of the Alps means that night time temperatures will always be quite cold. Summer tends to be the rainy season with frequent thunderstorms. The warmest temperatures in winter and summer are found in the great lakes region.
SicilySicily, the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, may be just a short hop from the Italian mainland, across the narrow strait of Messina, but it is a world apart in atmosphere and attitude. Everything Italian seems a little more appetizing here, not only the food but the history and culture as well.
For a long time Sicily was ignored as a holiday destination, largely because of the Mafia stranglehold and because of the poverty of the people. Today, however, the island is experiencing a tourism boom and a surge in development as the destructive influences of the Mafia wane. Visitors discover that the Sicilian people are gracious, noble and welcoming and that the island itself offers natural and historic attractions of great beauty and enormous interest.
The main cities of Palermo and Catania feature some of the most exquisite architecture in the world, a legacy of the many great civilizations that have vied for control of this strategically situated island over the centuries, from the Greeks and Romans, Arabs and Normans to more recently the French, Spanish and Italians. There are massive Romanesque cathedrals, the best-preserved Greek temples in the world, Roman amphitheaters and magnificent Baroque palaces. The continuous blue skies and temperate climate, lush vegetation and rich marine life all add to the island's appeal. Nature has given Sicily Mount Etna, Europe's tallest active volcano, a dramatic coastline and a fertile soil that gives forth much of the bounty on which the island's unique and delicious cuisine is based.
Climate: Sicily has a Mediterranean or coastal climate with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. The mountainous interior has cooler temperatures with snowfall during winter, while along the coast winter temperatures average about 50°F (10°C).
FlorenceThe principal Tuscan city of Florence (Firenze) nestles below the wooded foothills of the Apennines, along the banks of the Arno River. The works of Botticelli, Michelangelo, Bruneschelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Boccaccio, Alberti, Masaccio, Donatello, Vasari and Fra Angelico imbue the city with the magnificence of their contribution to art and life. The city itself is muse to some and home to many stylish citizens who enhance the cobbled streets and fashionable piazzas with their inimitable Italian flair.
The heart of the city, where everyone from tourist to tout seems to congregate, is the Piazza de Duomo and the Piazza della Signoria. The statues dominating the Piazza della Signoria commemorate major historical events of the city's life and the magnificent Palazzo Vecchio still performs its original role as Florence's town hall. The adjacent Uffizi is the oldest gallery in the world with a collection of the greatest works of the Renaissance commissioned largely by the Medici family. The man who founded the great long-ruling Medici dynasty was Cosimo il Vecchio. His legacy is imprinted in the city's northern area marked by the churches of San Lorenzo, San Marco and the Palazzo Medici Riccardi.
The Western stretches of the city are formed by Florence's railway station at one end and the Ponte Vecchio at the other. The quaint Ponte Vecchio bridge was built in 1345 and was one of the few areas to emerge unscathed from the wartime bombs. Little workshops that used to belong to butchers, tanners and blacksmiths, peer onto the river from their timber supports. Santa Maria Novella also rises from the city's western boundaries in true gothic splendor preserving some of the most important works of art in Florence.
The Oltrarno (meaning 'over the Arno') area became the place from which the Medici ruled from the Palazzo Pitti. The magnificent Boboli Gardens were designed and laid out around it. The area surrounding Via Maggio and Piazza di Santo Spirito boasts a collection of other palazzi built during the late 16th and 17th centuries.
Getting Around: The best way to explore Florence is on foot; the city center is compact and traffic is restricted. There is a comprehensive bus network (ATAF) operating from 5.30am to midnight, tickets valid for 60 minutes, which must be validated by punching them in a machine when you board the bus. Tickets, and various bus passes, are available at newsagents, automatic dispensers, coffee bars and on board the bus. Taxis can be hailed on the street but they tend to ignore this. Taxi ranks are to be found outside the train station and most tourist sites. Additional fees are charged for luggage, night and Sunday travel.
Climate: Florence enjoys a humid, subtropical climate. Summers are hot and muggy with temperatures overriding those along the coast. Relief rainfall prevails in the winter with cool to cold temperatures and occasional snow.
Amalfi CoastThe rugged southern shore dividing the Bay of Naples from the Gulf of Salerno is a restful and picturesque area. Miniature towns shelter in precipitous coastal ravines and tranquil seas calmly lap the shores of quiet pebbled beaches. The Amalfi Coast is a great relaxation spot from which to enjoy coastal Italian culture.
Stretching between the towns of Postiano and Vietri sul Mare, near Salerno, the area is renowned for its breathtaking scenery and towering mountain cliffs that plunge into the Mediterranean Sea. Precariously perched and threatening to tipple into the sea, the small town of Positano is a great attraction for tourists with its cluster of multi-colored houses and remarkable setting. A cliffside stairway provides the perfect vantage point from which to admire its glorious sea vistas.
Four miles (6km) down the coast is the quaint town of Praiano framed by caves, castles and sharp cliffs. A stroll from here towards Amalfi will take one to a ramp leading to Marina di Praia, a 400-year-old fishing village nestled in the embrace of a tiny ravine. Another notable stop between Praiano and Amalfi is the Grotto dello Smeraldo. The busy seaside town of Amalfi basks in the glory of its longevity as the first Sea Republic of Italy and as the hometown of Flavio Gioja, the inventor of the compass. It is referred to as the 'pearl of the coast' and has a bit of everything for the weary traveller. A pebble's throw away from here is the quiet village of Atrani. Its tranquil beach rests languidly on the water's edge against a superb backdrop of mountains.
Further down the coast is Minori, notable for its lemon exports and a gentle place with villas and beaches to explore. The quiet town of Ravello retains the charm prized by Bocaccio who dedicated part of his famous work, the Decameron, to the town.
The coastal road that twists its way between the rocks affords glimpses of the small villages, bays and inlets, and a journey along this southern route will take travelers to towns of worldwide fame as well as to lesser known spots of equal enchanting beauty.
CivitavecchiaHundreds of thousands of tourists visit Civitavecchia on the west coast of Italy every year, but few see anything of this port city beyond the harbor, bus terminal or railway station. This is because the historic port has served as the port of Rome for around two millennia, and most are just keen to jump ashore from a cruise liner and head for the attractions of the Eternal City, situated about 50 miles (80km) away.
Those who are forced to kick their heels at a hotel in Civitavecchia for a night or two before embarking or after disembarking from a cruise will not find the city packed with much to do and see. Although it is an ancient port, most of the city's archaeological treasures and old buildings were destroyed during the two world wars, thanks to its strategic importance as Rome's port. Traveling through the port gate, though, no one can avoid noticing the city's main attraction, the looming 16th-century Fort Michelangelo, commissioned by Pope Julius II and completed by Michelangelo. There are also remains of the old city walls, and a worthy fountain designed by Vanvitelli, close to the Fort and the old Roman harbor. The old part of town features another attractive fountain in the Piazza Leandra, fronting a medieval church. There is also an interesting National Archaeological Museum, which contains exhibits discovered during the harbor restorations and from surrounding archaeological sites. Along the wide seafront avenue stands the unusual Church of the Holy Japanese Martyrs, dedicated to some Franciscan monks who were martyred in Japan in the 16th century, and decorated with frescoes and mosaics by a Japanese artist.
Along the adjacent coast are some enjoyable beaches and an interesting spa resort where the hot springs, the Taurine Baths, have been used since the days of ancient Rome.
